Ice Climbing in the Catskills, February 2-3, 2001
The next 5 pics are in a place called the Hellhole. It has numerous NEI 4-6 climbs. Chris Ferro and I climbed here Saturday.
Below is a place called the notch (smoke hole notch?) on route 214 heading north from Phoenicia, NY towards Tannersville, NY. Here is Chris Ferro rappelling from a climb we believe is called the Black Dike.
This is also in the the notch. Here is Chris leading the first pitch of a two pitch climb.
Here is Chris leading the second pitch of that same climb. The start was really cool with a little mixed action. The top was also funky as it was super brittle and off balance.
Directions to Ice Climbing in the Catskills.
I'm putting this up because there isn't a guide book available for ice climbing
in the catskills and we had to do a lot of asking around and searching before we could find the climbing spots.
This may not be the most accurate information so feel free to send me corrections sline@mindspring.com
- Phoenicia, NY:
- First go to Phoenicia, NY. From Baltimore take rt. 95 N to Garden State Parkway. Take Garden State Parkway North to Rt. 24 West. Take Rt. 24 West to Rt. 287 North. Take 287 North to Rt. 87 North. Take Rt. 87 North to Rt. 28. Take Rt. 28 West to Phoenicia. Take the business spur into the town.
- The Notch:
- From the business spur in Phoenicia, turn right on Rt. 214.
Proceed through Lanesville for about 10 miles total to a pass over a ridge.
This is the notch.
You should see ice all along the road on the left and right.
The notch has many class 3-4 climbs. Some 2 pitch climbs, lots of single pitch climbs. The approach is a 10 minute hike up a steep slope.
- The Playground:
- From Phoenicia, take Rt. 214 north.
The playground is before the notch on the right.
There is a parking lot on the left where you may see other climber's cars.
The playground is up the hill on the right. (We didn't climb there).
- The Hellhole:
- From Phoenicia, take Rt. 214 north till it tees with Rt. 23a.
Turn right on 23a heading towards Tannersville.
In Tannersville, turn right at the first stop light onto Rt. 16.
Take Rt. 16 all the way to its end and park (15 miles?).
30 yards before the parking area is a small bridge over a narrow deep canyon.
This canyon is the hellhole.
The hellhole has numerous class NEI 4 - 6 climbs. The approach is down a steep gully like trail and will take 2 minutes.
- Katerskill Falls:
- From Tannersville, continue East on Rt. 23a for about 3 miles.
You will see a parking lot on the right overlooking a gorge.
The road turns sharply left to go up a valley where it horseshoes around and comes back out.
Park at the lot, hike up to the center of the horseshoe and take a trail up the creek there.
There is supposedly a 2 pitch climb rated NEI 3+ and NEI 5.