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I arrived in La Paz, Bolivia, the
highest capital city in the world at 12,500', on July 22. Zach
arrived that night, and the very next day we began our journey to
Cuzco. In this picture we have already purchased bus tickets for
Copacabana,
Peru and Zach is getting some crackers for the bus ride. This is
a typical stand selling soft drinks, crackers, water, and lots of other
stuff. You see stands like this everywhere and they generally
sell all the same stuff. |
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Near the bus station are ice cream
stands. This picture shows the ice cream factories from where the
ice cream stands get their ice cream. |
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Behind Zach are the ice cream
stands. Notice how the hillsides in the background are covered by
houses all the way to the rim of the mesa. Mostly poor people live in
the houses higher up, the rich people live lower in the city. |
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Our bus to Cuzco had to cross this
part of Lake Titicaca. Here is the ferry. Showing uncommon
good sense, they had the passengers exit the bus before the traverse,
and take a people boat across, shown below. |
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Here is the people ferry. No
life preservers. Heck, we were only a half mile from shore in the
center and at 12,000' elevation, the water would be plenty warm for a
swim. |
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Other than the boat sinking I felt
really safe crossing Lake Titicaca. I finally realized why --
Here is the Lake Titicaca Naval station. No fear of being attacked by a
foreign power in this lake! |
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Three vehicles crossing on the
ferry. No, I didn't see a single one tip over. |
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Sunset on Lake Titicaca. The
Inca's believed that the first Inca was born in Lake Titicaca.
BTW as I alluded to before, Lake Titicaca is at a very high elevation
-- around 12,000' in the Andes mountains. |
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The Peruvians drink Mate de Coca,
or Cocoa Tea. Since it has cocaine chemicals in it, it gives a
nice wake up feeling in the morning (and any other time of day for that
matter.) I'll let you know in a few weeks if this is detected by
pre employment drug tests. |
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Here a lady is sweeping donkey dung
off the field. She said to me 'Take a picture, take a picture!',
so I did. Then she charged me 1 Boliviano. Geez, I should
have known she was a model. |
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Guess what -- more models.
These were expensive ones, demanding 10 Bolivianos apiece perhaps to
pay for llama food. |
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Here we were crossing from
Bolivia to Peru. We already had our passports stamped with exit
stamps from Bolivia and we hadn't entered Peru yet. I wonder if
any laws apply where we were right then? Perhaps we could have
been murdered, or better yet we could have murdered somebody else! |
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Not shown in any pictures,
while in Copacabana, we took a boat ride to the Island of the Sun,
where the first Inca was born. After that we boarded a bus for
Puno where the floating islands of Uros existed. Here in this
picture we are boating out to the floating islands of Uros. A
native is rowing back to land. He seems to row backwards,
or maybe we row backwards and he rows correctly. |
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Those houses are on floating
islands. The islands are made of many layers of dried reeds and
chunks of dried reed roots. The islands are anchored by ropes and some
sort of anchor or stake under the water. Sometimes during a storm
an island will cut loose and blow far away. |
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Here our boat is going to let
us off on a floating island. The reed surface is spongy and you
sink a little with each step. But you never go all the way in to
the water thank goodness. One native poked a stick through the bottom
of the island and it was about 10 feet down to the bottom of the
water. And no, with that hole in it, the island didn't sink. |
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Here are some little girls
playing in a rowboat. |
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They row backwards too.
They row better than some adults I know. |
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Here is their father on a
reed boat. The boats are unsinkable because they are solid
reeds. |
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Me on a reed boat ride. |
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Me on the big bird.
These bird towers serve the traditional purpose of allowing goofy
tourists to take pictures. |
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After leaving Puno and
the floating islands, we took an all night bus ride to Cuzco.
Cuzco was a fantastic city. Very clean and lots of fun stuff
todo. It used to be the administrative headquarters, or capital,
of the Inca empire. This is the staging city for the Inca trail
treks and the departure for Machu Picchu, the sacred Inca city on the
mountaintop. Machu Picchu is about 2-3 hours to the northwest from here. |
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Another picture of the Plaza de
Armenas in Cuzco. "Most of the streets in Cuzco are lined with Inca
built stone walls which now form the foundations of modern or colonial
buildings. Cuzco is the archeological capital of the Americas and the
longest continually inhabited city on the continent" From South America
on a Shoestring. Here's an link to an
overview of the Inca empire Here is another link to Inca info
at encyclopaedia.com |
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On the way to Machu Picchu,
our cab driver let us take a picture. There are many large
mountains such as this, many over 20,000 feet. Notice also the
agricultural fields terraced up the mountainside to the left of me in
the picture. |
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The day we visited Machu
Picchu, it rained hard all morning. Here is a
somewhat clear shot of the houses at Machu Picchu. We had hoped to
hike the Inca trail for 3 days, then visit Machu on the 4th, but there
is a quota on the trail and it was full. We needed to wait a
week, which we didn't have, so we went straight to Machu Picchu.
Since there are no pictures of the Inca trail on my website, you can hike the Virtual Inca trail |
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While at Machu Picchu we hiked
the Huayna Picchu trail, which goes to the top of the steep peek at the
far end of the ruins. Zach is in this picture, can you see
him? If you look in the previous picture, the nearest peak is the
one zach is now on. We climbed past this peak to the following
peak which was the highest. |
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On top of Huayna Picchu, is
this building, I forget what it was for. Then even more steps
going to the very summit about 100 feet highet. It was quite mystical with all the
clouds, rain, and steep mountainsides. |
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Here are the stairs
immediately below the building. Pretty steep, wet, and shallow. |
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Me descending Huayna Picchu. |
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Steps carved out of
granite. They had no steel tools to do their carving. They
only used other stones. |
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The round building is the
temple of the sun. On the solstices the sun would shine through
one of the windows for 7 minutes each morning. One window was for
the winter solstice, one for the summer solstice. Also notice the stonework qualities. The wall on the right was the common quality used for houses. The wall on the left and the temple of the Sun were done with super fine quality, as were all the temples and religious constructions. Upon closer examination, you will see the rocks are fit extremely close together, almost as if they were cut with laser or a modern cutting tool. |
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Here is another example of
the super fine quality. Notice the rocks aren't just stacked,
each one is individually cut to fit into it's place. |
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A water channel cut in to the
granite. |
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A sacrificial altar. 80
percent of the bones found in Machu Picchu were women indicating
many sacrifices. Or maybe they just complained too much. |
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Here is Zach in front of some
religious structure. It also uses the super fine quality.
Historians believe the collapsing of the wall to the right was from
gold miners digging the ground out and not putting it back correctly. |
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Terraced hillside at Machu
Picchu. Our tour guide said the terraces were for erosion control
and not agriculture, but other guides said it was used for
agriculture. I think it was just for photographic purposes. |
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Temple of the Condor below
the tree to the left a little. Huayna Picchu would be to the
photographer's right and the previous picture's terraced hillside is to
the left. Here is a cool link
to a site about the mysteries of Machu Picchu
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The market in Agua Calientes,
the modern town closest to Machu Picchu. This is where the buses
pick you up to take you to Machu Picchu. |
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A chess set. Notice one
side is Incan pieces and the other side is Spanish pieces. Cute
at first, but not so funny after a little thought. |
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After returning from Machu
Picchu, we hired some guides to take us trekking through the mountains
around Cuzco. We didn't have all the camping gear we would need
to cook and camp, so we hired somebody to do the work for us.
They brought a horse and two mules to carry the stove, food, tents, and
common gear. Pretty de-lux. We just walked with our cameras and water bottles.
The guide said it would be 10 km and take 6 hours. We thought 6 hours
for 6 miles no way! Well it was more like 20 km and it was between 13,000
and 14,000 feet elevation. It took us 8 hours of hiking, and we were in
good shape. The guide was way off on his estimate. |
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We encountered these farmers
harvesting a grass used in making adobe bricks, pronounced eechew, but
spelled like I have no idea. That grass only grows above 11,000
feet. |
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Here are the two guys picking
the eechew. We paid them a boliviano for the photo op. |
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Mountains |
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We stopped here for lunch. |
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A four star stopover with
lunch table and tablecloth even. Wilfredo in the red is our cook.
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The horse guys
driving the horses and mules toward the saddle. |
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Very near camp we leave the
canyon we were in and can see way down to a town called La Maya or
something like that. Our campsite will be at some Inca ruins around the
left of the slope we see in the forground. |
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Wilfredo the cook on the
ground, Daniel our guide is next from the left, and Zach. We will camp
down the slope to the left, but not all the way at the bottom where the
river is. |
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We camped at these Inca ruins. The ninth Inca named Pachacutec lived here around 1438. He was famous for the high quality of craftsmanship done by the workers under him and he extended the Inca empire by conquering the central Andes. His son Tupac Yupanqui, the tenth Inca, then extended the empire from what is now Quito, Ecuador to Santiago, Chile. The eleventh Inca, Huayna Capac was the last to rule a united empire. When he died he divided the empire in half, giving the northern half to one son, Atahualpa, and the southern half to his other son, Huascar. This began civil wars and at the same time European diseases such as smallpox arrived faster than the European conquerors themselves, and contributed to the Incas' demise. The final blow was when Francisco Pizarro marched down from Panama to finish the dirty deed in 1532. |
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After finishing the trek, we
did a downhill mountain ride for 2 hours. We passed these salt
processing pools. A trickle of water coming out of the mountain
is extremely salty. When the water evaporates, it leaves behind
salt crystals. These pools are where the water sits to evaporate.
One family 'farms' one to three pools. |
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Zach and Carlos, our Mountain
bike guide, scanning the salt fields. The End! |